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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 20 Nov 2013, 22:20 
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^ But wouldn't it be maybe better to think of it in terms of wanting a thing one can love? I recently listened an interview (a radio-podcast) with a philosopher of love Simon May (http://philosophybites.com/2011/05/simon-may-on-love.html), according to whom love is felt towards other beings or things which offer us the promise of being anchored in this world, feeling at home in the world. So maybe, rather than wanting the wanting itself, we want from designers (and artists in general) to create things we can love.


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 23 Nov 2013, 16:36 
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yes of course ( though a philosopher of love sounds like what a playboy would call himself as well).
"I want to want" is a bit ironic phrase about a particular situation rather than a general. for example,
a final phase of a certain market or someone's consumption history. they have done with it practically while they know how it feels when there is something they really want. they already have it, with only the drive still unfolding. the drive had been taking desire to something else and something new. but now there is nothing left for the drive to take desire to, ecxept simple thirst as the last object of desire.
and, most of all, the saturation. when there is continuously lots of stuff that they could be led to want before they themselves think they want it, all they most seriously want is sure thirst. so they want to want.
also the phrase implies that they are afraid it is no longer coming from the designer who used to be able to make it.

thinking about some things altieri had done to certain stores, it is not unreasonable that he could have been excommunicated from the industry for life. the reason they still care nonetheless is that they want to see something really exciting, almost personally, beyond means of making money, apart from mere business relations they have with many other designers. they know it since they saw it come from him. their right brain still expects it of him, but at once the left one presumes it is not likely any more.


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 23 Nov 2013, 16:45 
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other transgression's

magic gloves that transcend into the liquidizing mirror in the third attachment from cocteau's orphee


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 23 Nov 2013, 16:49 
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orpheus as one of the oldest transgressors, as the archetype of trespasser or even squatter

.


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 24 Nov 2013, 15:09 
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crouka wrote:
though a philosopher of love sounds like what a playboy would call himself as well.

Well, someone assuming they are a philosopher doesn't mean they are one :p I had in mind an actual theoretical discipline.
And thanks for sharing all the pictures by the way!


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 26 Nov 2013, 08:10 
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although ccp can be about trans- ( and sometimes extra- ) at one point, maybe it's about inter- on the whole ( e.g. like a major seventh which basically sounds major but also contains a minor chord. most part of the gloves and the shoes above are on the sunny side but the rest is on the dark side, revealing and concealing ).
it's an interworld that is no as well as yes, something like foucault's sympathy and antipathy.


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Last edited by crouka on 29 Nov 2013, 13:19, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 29 Nov 2013, 07:08 
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for the record, the second pic in the third post on this page is of what ccp and lift did for the store's 20th anniversary.
the explanation is on the site.
but there are some elements that are purely c.c.p. there.
the mirror = the skin.
it's is the surface that is featured there. it's another metaphor for that same thing he has been expressing consistently. as deleuze says, a continuity of the outside and the inside, above and below, reverse and right sides.


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 23 Jan 2014, 16:41 
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in connection with the above post, this bit from marguerite yourcenar/the dark brain of piranesi reminds me of the carol christian poell 2010.

“ ruins already fifteen hundred years old, broken stone and crumbling brick; the collapsing vault that welcomes light's intrusion; the tunnel of dark rooms opening in the distance on daylight streaming through a broken wall.....
.....temples and basilicas lying open as though turned inside out by the depredations of time and of man, so that the interior has now become a kind of exterior, everywhere invaded by space like a ship by water. ”


piranesi's ruins as architectural anatomy
carol's products as not only exfoliated skin but also écorché

temple of minerva medica
perforated laceable shoes
leather titanium hands


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 11 Feb 2014, 06:46 
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sleeved waistcoat from the double sleeveless jacket

(S/S 05)


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 17 Feb 2014, 16:30 
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alternately turning into what's in the opposite direction
reversibility, interchangeability
between prisoner and jailer, that is, inside and outside
( or being under the control of something unknown and being in control of it, imperfection and perfection )

always experimenting with points of view and approaches. - sypher

image for S/S 06 U-turn, the mona lisa or hamlet of fashion


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 17 Feb 2014, 16:36 
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"corpulence" series from S/S 06 U-turn
reversible jacket, waistcoat, and trousers that are supposed to be good in beer belly and in flat belly, for increasing, for decreasing

fair is foul, and foul is fair

the mechanism of ccp self-moving shuttle loom may be like so ugly as to be beautiful, and so beautiful as to be ugly ( mann ).


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 07 Mar 2014, 14:30 
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silver yarn silver threads silver fabrics silver knits ...


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 04 Apr 2015, 18:37 
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Quote:

what did you want to express the most in this season's collection (S/S 2003)?
to be able to make some garments.

materials are usually a strong feature in your work, such as the intestinal leather and dog hair used in a sweater. since you started, which fabric sticks out the most in your mind? could you elaborate on the difficulties you have encountered while developing materials?
the fabrics that stick out in my mind are the ones still to realize. many difficulties and a lot of making mistakes but always worth it.

if you could present your creations in the place of your choice and the way you want to, where would you choose?
nowhere.

are there other things you would like to design apart from fashion?
orthopaedic instruments and body parts.

if you were to express the carol christian poell vision in a single word or phrase, what would that be?
no vision but indecision.

what is the first thing you do at the start of the season, when designing a collection?
I complain.

what/who are the current people, art. music and periods/styles you are interested in?
the people I work with.

what else might you have done if you were not a designer?
tailor.

what do you think is the most important quality for being a designer?
to have a good memory.

could you say a few words towards young people who hope to become designers?
if you want to be really creative you are better off not to become a designer.




^ what he mentioned in the summer of 2002 ( things around those days include leather sudare, afghanhound-like fringey jacket and trousers, Π shaped inseam/crotch trousers, leather dust emulsion spray coating, every conceivable play with tape, shoelace knits, leather knits, PVC knits, dog fur knits, buffalo, mole, "cheap leather", condom, walking stick, etc. maybe his work was most magnetic around there in his career as a trickster. therefore it was when ccp was possibly most enthusiastically received in japan, by way of astonishment rather than conviction, force rather than validity, virtuosity rather than technique, concetto rather than concept, sophism rather than logic, provocation rather than answer. by way of what breton called convulsive beauty. oxymoron, aprosdoketon, hyperbole and ellipsis. 2x2=3. the uncanny, the skin-ego, the mirror and anamorphoses. on the other hand he was renowned as an aesthetician who makes most devoutly classic and most simply beautiful shirts. by the way it was also the year altieri presented linea and LUC did the first capsule collection with luca still taking part in 1+1=3 and something about the time started to make them accelerate or make that acceleration possible. they were selling well. lift etage, that was originally a back-street palace that resulted from an intensive following they had at lift ecru. at the opening reception, one of the owners was wearing a ccp suit and the other a linea coat steamed in salt crust that practically works as a dress if you fasten the front closure. it did look fertile and promising, although simultaneously it seemed like everything that doesn't last. those designers looked as if they had been prepared for exit anytime. )


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 05 Apr 2015, 01:11 
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One form of elegance is gracefully sidestepping predictability. There's a strong link between his refusal to meet those questions head-on and his refusal to make a traditional blazer. As good a name as any for this link is, I think, perversity.

The "nowhere" line is wonderful, and makes you wonder how long the Dead End concept had been fermenting.

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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 05 Apr 2015, 02:19 
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to me it just read as his lack of interest to participate in the system of serving up product to the consumer. he does of course participate in this system after all, but there has always been a discomfort with it - showing the work in unusual ways and settings seems to have come directly from that discomfort, and a confrontational tone rather than desire to put on a spectacle.

this is really good stuff. I have heard from several shop owners that a new body of work is now in production.. maybe christian or bsr can talk about that more if they're so inclined. these approaches to the work are of more interest to me. the answer to 'what did you want to express in this season's collection' is also priceless.

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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 06 Apr 2015, 03:46 
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A pair of the leather Poell condoms Crouka mentioned, stamped "SAFE". A friend of mine who collects clothing (but, mostly of the akihabara noise genre) mentioned, to my surprise, that he had these in his possession. Purchased from London's Pineal Eye in '01 or '03. "Never used, of course..."

Image

Image


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 06 Apr 2015, 15:08 
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I know next to nothing about Poell save what photographs of his work I have seen here and on a handful of other websites, but I'm grinning ear to ear at those condoms. Feels like a gleeful joke Rick Owens might be in on.

I had no idea it was possible to make clothing out of viscera, but I would kill for something crafted from intestinal leather. (Out of context that sentence is truly terrifying to read.) Down the Google rabbit hole I go, but if someone here has any other examples of organs-turned-garments, I'd be excited to see them.


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 06 Apr 2015, 17:23 
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will try to find that voltbird, maybe mak has some


thanks for the pics kobalos
nice to know someone bought two of it. it's stretch leather. the first version of their website comprised just a contact link and an image of it on a dildo.


another factor behind his words could be that japanese editors keep asking the same questions, and it might be his dislike of showing much the same answer to the audience, rather than himself being sick and tired of it.
he had once clearly stated a designer should "always be astonishing, otherwise, there is no particular point being a designer". so perhaps with awareness even though it's just a question-and-answer stuff, he thought it should not bore the customers with the meaningless repetition ( hence his answer above "to have a good memory" ) if he shows up there as a designer at all.
taking you unawares is his kindness.

the answers provided in 2001 to the first, sixth and ninth questions, for reference

"traditional escape - something metaphorical, literary"

"fabric always comes first. design follows it. the concept of the collections has been there since the beginning. it is part of my personality and progresses naturally"

"to have your own point of view"


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 06 Apr 2015, 18:18 
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http://carolchristianpoell.mak.at/keyissues/l/topic9


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 06 Apr 2015, 21:53 
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BLESS YOU, crouka.


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