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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 13 Aug 2016, 23:39 
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glad its back, for a while it was a challenge to come across again in decent quality. there have been some murmurs of renewed activity coming from that place that has, custom orders aside, remained silent long enough that it has become honestly quite difficult to take any such thing seriously. but one can hope I suppose, if only because the dreary state of things out there to my knowledge, creative stagnation and lack of anything worthwhile beyond competing for moneyed customers with a crotchety man making sack-suits somewhere in the English countryside.

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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 14 Aug 2016, 22:03 
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Thank you crouka. I am wondering about the enclosures the garments are displayed in. Are they something readily identifiable, or just tiled little rooms that happen to look like rotting showers?

Editing to add: squinting, I think they are showers. Though the mannequins are covering up any telltale drains.


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 15 Aug 2016, 18:35 
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while that's what I haven't stopped to think about, yes there is a possibility they are showers. but my understanding of them until this opportunity was that they were squat toilets. especially because it was an old factory and the doors look a bit too sturdy for showers, metallic and lockable.
anyway, the items doubled up with their ripstop shadows are called "chute" (like jacket-chute, parka-chute, etc). in a way, we are a kind of chute from mouth to whatever. toilets are where we witness something similar to the glove phenomenon.


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 30 Sep 2016, 02:48 
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Found these a while ago, I'm sure theres nothing new here for most of you but I figure they should be posted here anyways.

the URL isnt supported though so only links

Best Before
http://www.tudou.com/programs/view/WGUGUOmM5Xk/
Mainstream Downstream
http://www.tudou.com/programs/view/R7C_Jdfrw90/
Traditional Escape
http://www.tudou.com/programs/view/ZnjCylTvxLE/?spm=a2h0k.8191414.0.0
Public Freedom
http://www.tudou.com/programs/view/I-wxNIXv_Es/?spm=a2h0k.8191414.0.0


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 26 Nov 2016, 08:01 
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"every continued quantity is divisible in infinitum. the motion of the eye, looking at the hand, and descending from A to B, being a continued quantity, may of consequence be divided into an infinity of parts: now the hand always changing its figure and aspect, as its situation alters with regard to the eye, it will be seen under as many different aspects, as there are distinct parts in the motion; that is, the aspects of the hand are varied to infinity. and the result would be the same, if the eye, instead of being lowered from A to B, should be raised from B to A; or if the eye were fixed, and the hand had its motion."

- leonardo da vinci

the motion is described as an infinitely divisible and variable process. he says the aspects every human action offers us are infinitely different, as if deformation is optically, physically, legitimated.
"fixed-explosive" - andre breton's prophecy about beauty corresponds to the high-speed or super-slow camera view, or childlike (and in a way rather erotic) overzealous desire to escape from normal dimensions, deviate from normal speed. to fluidize objects through anamorphosis and arrest.
the form becomes a victim of the space and the viewer, and with ccp, the wearer becomes a victim of the form.


hendrick goltzius 1588
"de hand van judas"

carol christian poell 2010
"object dyed leather hands" (not gloves any more here at last)


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 26 Nov 2016, 08:10 
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frozen vortexes old and new

rosso circa 1523
what has typically been named mannerism

ccp FMFW00


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 26 Nov 2016, 08:21 
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stroboscopic
explosive
2D


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 26 Nov 2016, 08:24 
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from ccp SS07


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 29 Nov 2016, 09:06 
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....


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 29 Nov 2016, 09:15 
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matthias grünewald


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 29 Nov 2016, 09:20 
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.....


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 30 Nov 2016, 07:00 
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Someone told me recently that carol is very close to releasing new material.. is this for real?


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 30 Nov 2016, 07:21 
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scorpio wrote:
Someone told me recently that carol is very close to releasing new material.. is this for real?


It has recently been said to be the case. however, it has been spoken of for a number of years now without consequence. given the sources and frequency, i would not at all discount the possibility of new work being presented or even becoming available, but have little interest until there is something to look at. it is not unreasonable to assume that much of the staff responsible for design and production in preceding years has moved on, and it is difficult for me to imagine the extent of various people's contribution to popular perception of 'carol christian poell'. All this to say that the renewed efforts may yield something closer to the spirit of mid-oughts activity that I have some fondness for. Or it could be a warm embrace of the mainland luxury consumer and flourescent-orange boots for $5000 a pair, with the understanding of the latter having kept Poell afloat this long without a new collection to present. perhaps the visible middle finger to established seasonal rituals, where nothing new is ever presented and the old sells well enough to wile the decades away.

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which pyre in my library crimson


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 30 Nov 2016, 12:10 
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merz wrote:
scorpio wrote:
Someone told me recently that carol is very close to releasing new material.. is this for real?


It has recently been said to be the case. however, it has been spoken of for a number of years now without consequence. given the sources and frequency, i would not at all discount the possibility of new work being presented or even becoming available, but have little interest until there is something to look at. it is not unreasonable to assume that much of the staff responsible for design and production in preceding years has moved on, and it is difficult for me to imagine the extent of various people's contribution to popular perception of 'carol christian poell'. All this to say that the renewed efforts may yield something closer to the spirit of mid-oughts activity that I have some fondness for. Or it could be a warm embrace of the mainland luxury consumer and flourescent-orange boots for $5000 a pair, with the understanding of the latter having kept Poell afloat this long without a new collection to present. perhaps the visible middle finger to established seasonal rituals, where nothing new is ever presented and the old sells well enough to wile the decades away.


As I understand it, he has little to no involvement with the current production. It's just being done by others to keep the business ticking over--not sure how much the motive there is the income, or keeping it running in case Carol decides to come back and actually release something. But that was what I heard a year ago, maybe he's back in it since then, if the rumours have weight.


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 06 Dec 2016, 18:32 
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he was a fortunate designer because he was found already in the beginning by proper albeit small audience, stores or consumers. the fact is that the cult following has never broken off since the mid 90's. I guess partly because there has been something about ccp that makes it hard for them to stop paying attention. there has been something similar to everything that seems as if it should not last. like always no wonder whenever he closes his business. so, none of them would have thought ccp was available to this day.

a bit more on deformation

melting and then volatilizing. or hardening and getting brittle to crush. ccp is what happens between the opposite dead-end risks. reversible transition (and infinite gradation as leonardo points out above) between rubbery and glassy states (as in the rubber drip and the fiberglass fabric). so there arises a polemical reaction to the extreme such as "drip rubbered" items, "bag dresses (basically dead end zippered wearable garment bags)" etc - to the dissolution of the form or the content. he has to catch the disappearing object with the net of geometry. there has to be an over-emphasized affirmation of the outlines again, through the geometrically precipitous outcrop of the form's structural elements. this polemical relation gives the spirit one of its vital impulses, which has been a tradition of europe over the centuries.
he may be a loner in the world of fashion, to the extent that some actually say ccp is not fashion. but he is undeniably an european constant in terms of cultural and intellectual history (geistesgeschichte).


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Last edited by crouka on 13 Dec 2016, 18:50, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 06 Dec 2016, 18:36 
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cubism or blockism


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 06 Dec 2016, 18:40 
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erhard schon


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 06 Dec 2016, 18:43 
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luca cambiaso

what was not only "laughed at that time" but also loved by rembrandt and later seen as "a prototype of european avant-garde"


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 Post subject: Re: Placet Experiri
PostPosted: 24 May 2017, 17:04 
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from FW 1996
(atelier in a semibasement)


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