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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 31 Aug 2016, 19:31 
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sartoria pant pattern

linea design variation, system
one piece that contains
coat
jacket
shirt
skirt
pants
each horizontal line, height

pants, coat, pants, jacket


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 03 Oct 2016, 21:55 
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Linea heavy cotton jacket

Image

Image

Image


Linea cotton/linen cardigan

Image

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L'Maltieri cotton long coat

Image

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Carpe Diem horse leather clogs

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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 12 Dec 2016, 23:24 
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Is anyone able to shed some light on this c-diem.it , a reboot of sorts?

It seems to be a seperate project to the v n a p e r s o n a work.


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 13 Dec 2016, 02:31 
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Bulletiquette wrote:
Is anyone able to shed some light on this c-diem.it , a reboot of sorts?

It seems to be a seperate project to the v n a p e r s o n a work.


the modemonline page says:
Quote:
Starting from the AW 2017, after 10 years of inactivity, the members of that time gathered together again, to revive the brand as it originally was.

"the members" is just vague enough that this could mean almost anyone

I mean I know 2016 has been a weird-ass year, but not weird enough to see the old crew get back together


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 14 Dec 2016, 07:16 
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alright, with some of the presentations having taken place, we may as well talk about it.

vnapersona.

the truth of it is I'm having a difficult time picking a starting point, so it seems appropriate to start with an anecdote: another enthusiast of our shared interest, in conversation with me regarding this project, says that he'll have to wait for something to look at in order to be able to engage with it visually. and this is perfectly understandable. this is, after all, the feeling of want that crouka had mentioned at some previous point. I relate to these things as clothes, object and product that is consumed through continued ownership. fair enough. but aside from the value of these things as items of clothing, maybe its worth asking again what it is that we're actually buying when we consume it thus.

we've had many of these conversations in the past, and the only thing we've all been able to agree upon was that the extreme subjectivity of meaning and value found attached to these objects. at one point dudley suggested that the product on offer was an escapist fantasy. at any rate, whatever value that came attached, it was bound to the product. most often these fall into stories of quality, craftsmanship, scarcity-backed value rooted in economics. semiotic values of endurance, plenty, status and access. or perhaps social commentary with cool detachment, even when you're made to pay through the nose for the privilege. even rebellion will be marketed back to you.

either way, it requires images. fantasy certainly requires images to evoke desire. suppose for a moment that the source of these images ultimately had to be yourself. and even then, the end result would become an interpretation of these images through a process, a performance enacted by you and another. if ever you've wondered what 1+1=3 actually stood for. the product becomes secondary to the experience of its creation and the process through which it is brought into being. a process of which you're an integral part. this has been hinted at through the years, from something so basic as the befuddled luxury consumers trying to figure out how they're supposed to put on a shirt without cutting a neck opening to pieces that challenged the wearer to divine their intention - or maybe they just dared them to adapt it for themselves in the wearer's own way, surprising the creator?

there are inherent challenges here because it isn't ready-to-wear and does not fit within the existing structure. however, it isn't something entirely novel for those involved. while I haven't participated in sartoria/anatomica myself, I would call upon crouka or those in the know on the details regarded to those days to fill in the blanks. what we know with certainty is that these things have happened before, and it stands to reason that they have a chance of happening again. for some time now we've been probing into what future relationships between the creator and patron look like, and this possibility has been repeatedly mentioned. I'm very glad to see it appearing in a more tangible form somewhere on the horizon.

I'd love to hear your thoughts on the idea of something like this.

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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 16 Dec 2016, 13:30 
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Well, as requested, will respond here rather than privately.

Q, you talked about "translating the otherness" in your email, which is an idea that grabs me more than anything else I had read about it thus far.

I'll digress a minute here:

strangeness is something I think about when teaching, and in particular when planning a course. When teaching either skills or content the challenge in part is to demonstrate how alien the thing is to what someone has known before. Which is, it turns out, supremely hard. It's why I admire some historical or near-historical writers--by making the past seem contingent again, we remember the immediacy and strangeness of what was, which we forget once we feel we know it.

(this can be connected to the Lacanians' critique of "knowledge" as a kind of trivialisation of our response to a truth, making something familiar and reproducible and so killing what was in it that was worth reproducing)

When teaching we have to make things strange again to allow people to think at all, or feel at all... you have to realise how much you don't know a thing before you can interact with it in any interesting way (the same with love, or art, or...)

So I'm interested in anything that genuinely tries to create (translate) some strangeness in clothing. The hazard of an image (which, as Q mentions above, we desire) is that we come to see it as more real than the world that lead to it. In terms of clothes--we try to live up to the marketing images or we try to actively appreciate the "craftsmanship" or even... we try to actively experience some intangible aspect so as to escape the former image-traps, which already removes us from strangeness and takes us to some achievable, recognisable, unthreatening place that simulates the excitement of something threatening.

So this does interest me, because if there is a designer/maker who I could see making something genuinely strange and therefore interesting it is Altieri, in a one-on-one (and so difficult to market) environment.

(all that said: I think personally that clothing, as something close to the skin, protective, is always in tension between interest/alienness and comfort/a shield or cocoon. Both bring it back from pure imagery, in their own way. The same piece--even the same idea--can be both at different times in its life, or even different times of the day. Ideally, poised between them. I suppose the same tension is, again, in music, art, love...)

(btw I feel we need more material for folks to sink their teeth into--people either know too much and are not saying, or know too little and are therefore not talking.)


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 19 Dec 2016, 18:55 
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i'd like to comment on all of this, and the reason why I haven't just yet is because a number of our forum's participants were able to meet with maurizio and discuss the project over the past week. I'd like to get some more people who were there to provide their thoughts on this project and the work more broadly.

Image

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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 23 Dec 2016, 02:25 
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I had the privilege of attending last week, and would love to share what I can, once I recover from my end-of-season, sleep-deprived burnout. Things get uniquely awful here as the holidays approach -- godspeed to those in a similar boat. Keeping this here as placeholder until I can sketch out some thoughts on strangeness, familiarity, memory...


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 24 Dec 2016, 00:22 
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Bulletiquette wrote:
Is anyone able to shed some light on this c-diem.it , a reboot of sorts?

It seems to be a seperate project to the v n a p e r s o n a work.


100% unrelated.
no substantive attachment to any of the endeavors discussed or attached to the c-diem.it situation.

of course they would love to intimate otherwise and will try as hard as they can to do just that.


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 24 Dec 2016, 02:03 
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excelsiom wrote:
of course they would love to intimate otherwise


They come VERY close to claiming his involvement on the modem website.


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 25 Dec 2016, 23:18 
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Image

Image

Now that I've had plenty time to catch up on sleep...

The above are photos from my visit last week. Normally I am an obsessive iPhone archivist, and pre-smartphone days I used to carry a DSLR everywhere. That evening I was too transfixed by the objects and discussion at hand to be snapping away. (The only other situation where that compulsion reliably falls away is at concerts, and for the handful of you here who know me well, that is revealing.) I have no lens to supplement my memory, fittingly.

As I was telling E a couple nights back, I was actually a bit nervous on my way down to the space. Both the content of the work itself -- based on what selections I myself have seen or handled -- and its surrounding mythology (the latter having its own strange character and momentum) had lent itself to a sketch of its creator as a kind of biblical figure rather than living, breathing person. It is of course a disservice to think this way of anyone, but in the absence of qualifying contexts usually forced down our throats by abundant marketing or interviews or whatever, I had nothing to derive from the work but the work. The work, of course, evidencing such a singular, unadorned intensity that I assumed its maker would scare the pants off me.

He did not. In fact, he set the terms of engagement so as to put us both on equal footing, or on no footing at all, as we spent much of the time seated on the floor together, turning shoes over in our hands. There was no "explanation" of the projects (m_moria, vnapersona) so much as a dialogue -- he was earnestly interested in how his propositions would relate to the individual wearer, and if I gravitated toward one object over the other, he was curious to know why. I found the shoes accessing childhood and teenage memories of desire: wanting things that were not generally made for me (my father's loafers, or a pair of oxfords like Steve Marriott's circa 1965) and had the subsequent joy of stepping into things that actually were. vnapersona, meanwhile, was far less instinctual, but this is the basic paradox: reconciling so alien and unrecognizable a shape (as it was to me, upon first glance) with the knowledge that this single line is in fact the ultimate simplification of all the information contained within a garment. This was true strangeness, contrary to the pullings of familiarity, however imperfectly framed by my own recall, that I felt with m_moria. I think MA specifically used the word "challenge" when describing the type of thought he was trying to provoke with it, and I told him that for me it went beyond even that to a leap of faith: it is difficult for me to see how this will become that, but I believe it will. (Or, maybe, I trust that it will.)

However daunting, it was clear to me in my few hours there that these challenges are an invitation borne of utmost respect for you: your own tangible needs, but also your curiosity and wonder. It leaves a sour taste in my mouth to see the project denigrated sans real engagement with it in the first place, or any sincere discussion of it purged from a certain alternate venue, presumably because it could not be suitably monetized. Their loss.


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 30 Dec 2016, 00:50 
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hoping more people contribute. the long boot you're wearing above is probably the best of the bunch, up there with avantindietro stuff in my books. just as compellingly weird a closure as the backlaces, or poell's spirals, or ann d's triple laces...

many thanks, from somebody living on the wrong coast, for that report!

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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 03 Jan 2017, 01:23 
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Am also hoping that several other members who were fortunate enough to be in attendance and speak with Maurizio will be able to post their impressions of the ongoing work here in due time. It isn't merely investigating information from the source that matters here so much as the exchange of ideas and what direction the work takes consequence to an open dialogue with those who take an active interest in these continued efforts.

a few more images of the various m_moriabc presentation samples

Image

Image

Image

paging SWIMS to share some of the c-last photos in less-pristine condition, it would make sense that as they are worn out in the wild, the shape and properties
of the leather begin to change from the clinical sheen of the presentation.

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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 04 Jan 2017, 02:02 
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Quote:
Mads Kornerup could not have known when he followed a dreadlocked stranger out of a Paris club a year ago to compliment him on his chocolate-brown python jacket that he would end up collaborating with the wearer. But last week, Maurizio Altieri, the owner and designer of the jacket, and Mr. Kornerup, a jewelry designer, were in Charivari, jointly presenting their collections. Mr. Kornerup will design the silver hardware for Mr. Altieri's Carpe Diem line for next spring, and the two plan to introduce a collection of Carpe Diem jewelry in the fall or spring.

Mr. Altieri, who is from Rome and started Carpe Diem a year ago, specializes in artisanal leathers. His python miniskirts and snap-button shirts were displayed on mannequins alongside his singularly crafted jackets. A brown cordovan like zip-front jacket, he says, is machine washable. Inspiration for a black zippered and belted hourglass style, piped in off-white with off-white quilt stitching on each shoulder, came from an old German Army jacket. The designer will copy a customer's body tattoos onto a Carpe Diem purchase if requested.

Mr. Altieri and Mr. Kornerup, who works in blackened silver and is scheduled to open a New York store this year, have in common an interest in snakes. Mr. Kornerup keeps a python in a glass-topped box in the floor of his Paris shop. On Friday, as they greeted customers at Charivari, Mr. Kornerup was wearing the python Carpe Diem jacket he had first spied on Mr. Altieri.


new york times late edition, 1995

the relationship with the ("german army") wehrmacht canon surprisingly more active and persistent than was perhaps imagined

selbstbeschaffte offiziers ledermantel, as sold at charivari new york (in the year 1995?)
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which might have been a better deal, dollar-for-dollar, than the rest of the reproduction market

Image

Image


a more recent example: the tall purple BB_X pictured in voltbird's post above


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 03 Feb 2017, 18:41 
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excelsiom wrote:
Quote:
tattoos

snakes




and what appeared about 10 years later, as avantindietro


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 03 Feb 2017, 18:47 
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future - ultra minimalism = something like.....the larva of carpe diem ?

avantindietro - neoneny, paedo-morphosis, or fetalization - reculer pour mieux sauter


phpBB [video]


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 03 Feb 2017, 18:51 
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.....


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 20 Feb 2017, 06:55 
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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 20 Feb 2017, 07:30 
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Тебе достались? 40го размера небось..

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which pyre shall the moon ignite each hour
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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 21 Feb 2017, 09:16 
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merz wrote:
Тебе достались? 40го размера небось..


Ты ушёл в глубокое подполье? Что с фб?
Небось естественно они 40го, но с размером херня полнейшая. Подмётка 30.1, а голенище настолько узкое, что даже жена с её 37ым не пролезает. Буду растягивать

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