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 Post subject: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 06 Jul 2013, 08:02 
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things around this project, things before and after 1piu1uguale3
what led to it and what it gave birth to



mostly altieri's pieces might have been dark colored,
or unobtrusive colors you'd find in the natural environment of perugia.
but sometimes they came in red (not that burgundy), blue, green, pale pink, silver, etc.
this color presented on the washable calf in the summer of 1999 was his favorite. it's the color of renunciation of worldliness, spiritually to some.


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 07 Jul 2013, 02:06 
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porter
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where to begin.

ImageImage

upon visiting maurizio's workshop a few years ago, a friend spoke of a volume the former had written on colour and its significance, apparently there having been enough research on the subject that he had managed to write a book in the process, illustrating his theories in a parallel to itten's vorkurs which i thought a distant relative in that certain ascetic spirit you've alluded to.

the sulfuric yellow is a colour that i have seen in a different setting, one that almost seems more at home in poell's repertoire: the fat beneath the skin, sometimes seen in photographs of grisly roadside accidents, jarring and unexpected hue one does not immediately associate with the human body.. I actually have both the pieces you've posted, though in different weights of cotton and darker, cold-dyed shades of grey and black.. the rider jacket pictured above is particularly unusual because, aside from the photo you've posted and the one i own, i've never seen that particular cut anywhere..

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something i've noticed coming up a lot is that with the continues output having gone defunct, it is very difficult for those who were not on hand to witness its full selection -and even those who were- to get a full sense of the scope in patterns, materials and treatment experiments that were undertaken during the course of these projects. most of what we know comes from old photographs and archival stock at select shops, private collections shared at the owners discretion and sale/auction images. i have started to upload some of the images that i have in my own archive to a flickr account, and will be categorising these images by project (carpe diem/linea/sartoria/anatomica/fattoamano/intervalo/evoluzione/avantindietro..am i missing anything?) and base item pattern type (lab coat, 2-piece ls, ) in order to highlight both the variation in base pattern iterations and different materials/treatments/etc..

CONTINUES ARCHIVE

i've only uploaded a small number so far, and if you have things to contribute, please do.. hopefully we can find more of the missing pieces and get a clearer idea of the total body of work.

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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 07 Jul 2013, 16:51 
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as far as I know, that particular style of jacket was only for the S/S 2000 collection (work of 1999), aside from a few similar styles. unlike that car coat known as C04 that was produced for several seasons.

strictly speaking, though not very important, there were carpe diem and cdiem, and sartoria and sartoria one-piece.
linea had its special line called geometric. this might be to be mentioned.

as I said, good images from the X18 years that are perhaps the most popular cannot be accessed. before the computer itself refused to start up, the email program which has the images had not been working properly. it could be opened. but when you moved the cursor on the window, all the clickable parts ceased to be themselves. it was like that. don't know if this situation would make salvage process all the more challenging though.

the images that came in CD's are still alive and well. but I have already posted good ones from them. for example, those from the linea shoot. certainly there are some that are not posted yet. but that's because they are not so good. and those kinds that you don't want to post without any context. and frankly those you cannot because the model is altieri.

there might be a few more in print somewhere, like the images used on the invites and the postcards. will try to dig them out. but I'm afraid I already scanned most of the good ones and posted them. so, many can never be expected.


some more from S/S 2000

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Image

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Last edited by crouka on 10 Jul 2013, 16:59, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 07 Jul 2013, 16:56 
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....
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Last edited by crouka on 10 Jul 2013, 17:01, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 07 Jul 2013, 17:11 
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amadei was familiar to the customers because he was a bridge between the company and them after altieri had stopped showing up in stores.
he along with his wife and issei came to your city for the "sartoria outdoor" project held from 2003 to 2004.
you might still see at lift the stools covered with the patchwork fabric of the swatches for linea and sartoria.


from a magazine named journal one published in the spring of 2010.
it was delivered to designers, boutiques, creators, etc. not anything that was sold, as long as I know.
so, please prepare for the fact that the content of the interview is basically that of some industry group journal.
and this is from the pilot version. ignore things to be revised.

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Last edited by crouka on 07 Jul 2013, 17:26, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 07 Jul 2013, 17:17 
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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 07 Jul 2013, 17:20 
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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 07 Jul 2013, 19:11 
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crouka, thank you for it all (as well as for Placet Expiriri thread). It's like touching some hollow lights on the marshes, or.. hearing the echoes of magnum opus

I hardly can add something to this theme in nearest future, feel myself a bit of Jon Snow, but I'll try to be a good company.

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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 08 Jul 2013, 01:00 
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wow... thank for you for that crouka.that was the first time i'd read the m.a interview - really warming to read about his humble beginnings.

merz, i'll have a look through and see what photos i have/ can photograph - although like Jin i don't have anything much to add currently.

with regards to that sulfuric yellow, i know what you mean with the ccp comment. was quite the shock looking down at my feet (wearing 'urine' derbies) then cadaver during an anatomy/ dissection class... however, echoing crouka's comments, i think the yellow is much more reminiscent of the saffron/ turmeric robes found worn by eastern ascetics rather than something morbid.


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 10 Jul 2013, 17:32 
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you're welcome

just made the interview easier to read, at the sacrifice of the format.
but seems like it doesn't show when it's too wide.
so here are the links:

part one
http://imageshack.us/a/img51/715/q0b.png
part two
http://imageshack.us/a/img341/2894/px3.png
http://imageshack.us/a/img694/3466/7cb.png
part three
http://imageshack.us/a/img90/5330/jgho.png







Image

"digits" - letters and figures expressed by drawing lines between the 15 points - they used for sartoria's hand stitching and linea (etc)'s product code on the tag.
with the infinite combination of the digits, you could have chosen to let your garment spell whatever you like, name, formula, haiku, cipher...
it was about writing stitches/reading seams/wearing letters.
also every piece from linea had its own code of the digits randomly arranged without any meaning, any pattern, law, but with some appearance of universal hidden poetry or hieroglyphics, to suggest an infinity of potentialities.

" when I get up in the morning I recite a whole ABC. that contains all prayers. our Lord God can take the letters and compose whatever prayers he wants. "
- moscherosch

" there may occur moments when ABC books appear poetic. "
- novalis



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sartoria one-piece
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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 11 Jul 2013, 23:14 
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thanks so much for sharing this, crouka! this reminds me of the topic of "encoding" in general, which has recently been explored in the area that connects poetry with genetics under the name of the "Xenotext Experiment". i'll post soon about it in another thread, maybe in the one about things that quicken the heart ;)


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 21 Jul 2013, 16:46 
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you're welcome rilu



altieri let neil barrett use the last and these are what came out.
there are some other styles.


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 22 Jul 2013, 01:41 
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crouka, your insights never cease to impress


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 22 Jul 2013, 02:18 
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meant to write more here, i've been prone to distraction lately. a couple of things that i wanted to touch upon were the celestial alphabet and the symbols used for linea. one of the comments i had previously gotten on those symbols was that they were to represent the garment pattern,composition and colour. while i know that the threes were a large part of the linea concept (as well as subsequent marvielab..) and worked by imposing a set of guidelines according to which items were developed, the actual marking system conveying any such info to the end user is of considerable interest.

i had also never seen the katakana digital stitch before, although cyrilic turns up quite often in a strange tribute to sartoria's (apparently enduring..) popularity in my ancestral homeland. if you happen to have some sartoria pieces, i would very much encourage you to photograph them sometime for the sake of enriching our collective knowledge, as you have done for many years now, and i am very grateful to have benefited from your contributions across a multitude of venues over the past seven years..

regarding barrett: was this an ancient collaboration of some sort? Though i've seen the cdg collaborations of yesteryear and what could very well be considered one most recently (the ever-reluctant m.moria..) as well as av field, never has it looked further away from the pared down spirit of what altieri had been doing at the time (and continued to pare down ever more so since those days..) .. a fascinating, yet sort of horrifying look at where such things can lead.

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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 24 Jul 2013, 17:51 
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as mentioned, this experimental third line that was to be called linea afterwards had no name at first, based on the idea that a name is only a sign (also in the beginning it was supposed to be made to order, as opposed to stores' buy).
and the code discharged of meaning (as in wjk, btw after the linea presentation in perugia they thought they needed their showrooms in the cities, then made them. one was wjk in tokyo. wjk had been the showroom until jun hashimoto started his own brand and named it wjk and got fired. the other X18 in paris. though X18 does represent its address encoded), like some poetic language, in order to separate what a name normally means from what there is actually there. that's why they didn't name the item basically in the shape of a shirt a shirt. because they wanted to present in front of us the collection as something completely unfamiliar.
this got along with the original no name concept, and in the first place all the info on the item was indicated on the rest of the area of the strip tag (this kind of marking system was there on the earlier carpe diem tag as well). but I could have misheard it.

the models sold at CdG aoyama in S/S 02 were what could generally be called collaboration. rei requested altieri to make special stuff and he delivered them hardly adding the extra charge for the special designs and treatments and she sold them at her place.
the neil barrett boots were from F/W 2010 (there were also some others from S/S 2011). neil barrett made its own stuff, using the last and characteristic construction. "iconic hybrid" as nb would say, rather than collaboration.
to be fair, the price range was different and the ribbed boots were about $1000 over here.



wjk


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 24 Jul 2013, 18:52 
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its an amusing photograph to me because it largely looks like the contents of my closet. there was one particular discussion on the system of hangers/display manner in which the work was shown, and i believe it was said that the particular manner of display entices the onlooker to interact with the garment, being able to discern enough to provoke curiosity without attempting to convey the detail, which is something to discover through first-hand tactile experience..

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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 04 Aug 2013, 17:12 
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Hello everyone, my partner and I found a tonnn of C. diem at our local consignment store! All about ~ $300 a piece.

2 very tiny pairs of leather pants for ladies - light blueish gray and dark chocolate brown.

1 large "lemuria" dress with 4 arms!! super rare.

4 various color skirts. larger sizes. some transform into tunics (have metal rings)

We'd love to proxy for anyone and send extra pictures / measurements asap. Would love to see these get off a crowded rack and into the hands of someone who really appreciates them. See two pics of the skirts attached.

[image]http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7378/9430011803_0883779d98.jpg[/image] [image]http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2816/9430011047_1c78546e31.jpg[/image]


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 04 Aug 2013, 17:27 
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well this is an interesting development. didn't think such troves existed anymore. just offhand i can see an abundance of women's layered skirts from the o-ring design that transforms them into tunics..

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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 04 Aug 2013, 17:54 
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Yes, pretty sure those are the ones! the leather pants have been there for well over a year. they used to have an amazing coat too. But all the skirts/ dresses are new developments


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 Post subject: Re: 1+1=3
PostPosted: 04 Aug 2013, 18:39 
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if you don't mind me asking, where is this? I'm pretty sure that lemuria dress you had mentioned will be of interest to collectors who are hard-pressed to find the sort of thing. Speaking of - crouka, can you tell us a little bit more about it if you have experience? I'm talking about pieces with four sleeves that were meant to be worn in various configurations.. i've only seen one of these in person before and it seemed quite unlike anything else.

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