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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 25 Jul 2014, 17:39 
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after twists and turns, I think she did it here excellently


S/S 2000


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 16 Feb 2015, 18:03 
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and SS 2015


switch - magazine - the comme issue out this week, if anyone is interested


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 16 Feb 2015, 19:05 
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ah, you spoil us with the lot of this. thank you from reminding of such beauty. there had been a video unearthed (and posted in the uno piu thread that similarly took me elsewhere and reminded of the sort of immediate desire you had written of before (not only towards objects but the context of it all concentrated in one space)

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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 17 Feb 2015, 20:34 
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yeah, thanks for sharing this crouka!


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 20 May 2015, 17:30 
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you're welcome


homme plus F/W 1994


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Last edited by crouka on 21 May 2015, 16:34, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 20 May 2015, 17:37 
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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 21 May 2015, 16:43 
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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 21 May 2015, 16:54 
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she used to change store designs in the aoyama flagship every season (until 1999).
for the F/W 94, the floor was mildly veiled with smoke a bit like this:
(the pic of the aoyama store is from a few years ago though)


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 21 May 2015, 21:35 
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cheers, crouka. i tried with some effort since yesterday to put some thoughts down on what you've shown as they have further confirmed my feelings on the work during those years when contrasted to the present. while they weren't necessarily less theatrical back then, there was some gravity and sobriety even that seems to have since evapourated. hlee once wrote commentary to the effect of this being perhaps by design, but a lot of what i see now feel like show-pieces designed for a museum floor. this is all rather subjective but they feel less like clothes now, more objects. your photos from earlier decades somehow underscore this..

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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 22 May 2015, 06:27 
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hmm I had in mind that lumps and bumps was a matter of discovering that the body (esp. a female one) is a blobby, organic, abject mass, getting pregnant and un-pregnant, gaining and losing weight, ageing, sagging etc.etc.etc. The newer stuff I think of as a development from that, eg. how to deal with the abject body : obliterate it with clothing

I definitely agree that the newer stuff feels more like its designed less as "fashion" and more as "art"for museums --- but I also think there's a special kind of Comme ontology where fashion+clothing doesn't make sense in a world where the body itself doesn't make sense. Comme clothing becomes 'bodily' in that they too gain and lose weight, become pear shaped, have orifices, become blobby, morphing entities and so on


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 24 May 2015, 17:47 
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one factor could be that the composition of her universe was far much simpler back then and that the scope of her main line's role was somewhat wider, where the pieces shown on the runways had to basically sell. at the showroom they came with the draft sheets with the information on the fabrics, colors, and sizes available, no matter how eccentric they were. but she changed the principle finally and what we saw on the models for the past few CdG collections were mostly show-pieces in fact that didn't come with those drafts. and now, the principle having been brought in again since S/S 2015, all that was on the F/W 2015 runway is something to sell, even if no one is likely to buy it as something to wear.

anyway, this is the last look from that latest collection. so practically we can see about it the extreme limits of her work at this point. it is the tip of the cape of CdG. and there it might be possible to think of it like this: it has a certain outlook on the world and you'd be looking outside from it. in this regard, it could be more appropriate to call it housing than clothing.
the line blurred here is between indoor and outdoor, privacy and publicness, or anonymity and identity.


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Last edited by crouka on 25 May 2015, 16:53, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 24 May 2015, 17:56 
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another look from F/W 2015
(there are designs a bit like birdcage too)


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 30 Jun 2015, 17:22 
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homme plus SS 1986


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 12 Jul 2015, 03:16 
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letting the thread have her latest work for men, even though just a couple of it.
the garments have been cut and destroyed once they had been perfectly tailored and finished.
the print section is self citation (or her self cover) of the print series from homme plus S/S 1997.

her menswear is completely different in approach from her womenswear.
CdG is the process where she wears her life away while homme plus is almost like having a breather and fun.
from the interview in 97, it seems that she wants men to look cute. this is the basic intention with her mens collections.
maybe a bit annoying since boys will want to look cool, mostly. so it would be best when the cute for her and the cool for men happen to overlap.


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 13 Jul 2015, 12:34 
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goodness - just recently i was trying to describe to someone what I've observed to be a sort of asexual style i've noticed some people wearing lately. For me it seemed to culminate in a bowl hair cut and childish looking glasses, but now i'm thinking homme plus is the origins of this asexual boy-man-child style... i guess its meant to be "cute" in a way but I think i found it somehow somewhat repulsive ha ha ha yes maybe i find it annoying cause *I* want boys to look cool


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 14 Jul 2015, 01:06 
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shared sentiment, however subjective the idea of cool. much of plus had seemed cool to me still, but there's no denying the sense of retreating into someone's idea of adolescence when looking at those clothes. and its exactly the sort of stuff you're talking about, down to the bowl cuts and appearance of wearing your father's clothes, play-acting adulthood.

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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 14 Jul 2015, 09:28 
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this brought to mind the contrast of rick owens

"Whenever I do a men’s collection they are always about self-loathing; how petty, how selfish, how vain I am. My women’s collections are always about the mystery and strength of a woman; the creation of families and the sense of togetherness."
http://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beaut ... 14/related

its quite the antithesis of cdg in a sense - owens celebrates the maternal/female body whereas cdg copes and deals with it.

at the same time i can sense a similar [gendered] self loathing in both designers, each have a certain fondness for the opposite gender where for kawakubo the petty, selfish vanity of men is seen as "cute" and the pregnant, un-pregnant, abject mass that is the female body is seen by owens to be a beautiful, maternal and mysterious strength.


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 09 Sep 2015, 19:00 
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in talking about designers' work, it matters little whether they are nice or not when you get to have dinner or whatever with them.

there are lots of people who have seen rei kawakubo since she sometimes stands at her stores to sell her clothes and accessories herself. and probably some of them say she was neither nice nor bad especially. basically it may be something similar to experience where you go to visit your friend and stumble across their mother in the house.
but I'm somewhat interested in how designers look or dress themselves.
for those who have that kind of interest (otherwise please ignore this post), here is her posing for asahi from monday this week.


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 10 Sep 2015, 09:08 
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I think it is safe to say that the lot of us here share that interest. during my brief time designing clothes for people other than myself, i found it very difficult to get beyond dressing myself explicitly. the foremost purpose of whatever i had come up with was to be a part of my personal wardrobe for a particular need that existed within it at the time. Its still that way whenever i approach the subject, and so the choices made by the more visible and established, those who see dressing others as their calling in whatever sense, are of very immediate interest. if i correctly remember, yohji's red line specifically consists of clothing that he regards as fitting the needs of his personal wardrobe?

or perhaps i had gotten that wrong.

there is something to these clothes, in rei's image, that conveys an authority, dignity and servility in the way robert walser would sometimes describe those qualities and related vestments.

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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 10 Sep 2015, 22:25 
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hlee wrote:
at the same time i can sense a similar [gendered] self loathing in both designers, each have a certain fondness for the opposite gender where for kawakubo the petty, selfish vanity of men is seen as "cute"


funny that you call it a fondness on rei's part ... "cute" to me always having connoted a relegation, and also a sapping of power or agency. cute, like a thing on a shelf. well, maybe it is that she's fond of the cute men, but the casting for her shows -- the men she'd like to put on the "cute" shelf -- seems to suggest otherwise ..


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