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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 14 Sep 2015, 06:31 
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yes the line called Y's for men aka ravel (red label) consisted of what yohji personally needed. it was on the casual side.
now, regulation men is for that sort of purpose. but it is a bit more on the classic (albeit functional) side.
more later


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 14 Sep 2015, 18:23 
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there was a period yohji was working for the dressmaker his mother used to run (the pic below). he was so skilled that the shop was thriving. he measured and cut and made clothes day after day. so he got to be more and more skilled. but basically all he had to do was copy famous designers because what the customers did in those days was usually show a pic of a look by some big name and tell him to make it for them, perfect made-to-measure version instead of the ready-to-wear. even though they tended to want styles not so suitable for their build and he thought of alternatives that would have made them look much more better. to make himself empty (or extinguish himself) and do patiently what he really didn't want to was to make the inside hollow space full of original ideas/desires. it was like the presence of what is called true self by means of the absence of himself. by the time he founded Y's, his desires had been completely defined.


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 23 Sep 2015, 17:44 
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when rei kawakubo founded CdG, she might have thought men were making a bluff too much and that too many women were putting on a show of fragility. and that they both had to be more free from where they were. apparently she still thinks so. I guess that's why she tends to make sort of cute looks for men and sticks fast to profusely strong mainline collections.


all those images we have seen were originally postcards. they sent the seasonal cards to the customers every time they got a batch of new arrivals. so there had to be some variety. one from the well-known series cindy sherman did for FW1994.


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 16 Nov 2015, 19:03 
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just letting the thread include CdG SS 2016 image

( and junya watanabe denim SS 2016 )


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 16 Nov 2015, 20:43 
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only realised now how much you had added to the thread.
unfortunately there is not much I can contribute here, but it is remarkable to see the images and garments in museum exhibits. I have not seen anything of the sort worn out in the wild, and imagine it only appears within a sort of rarefied socioeconomic context.. certainly how i would imagine it happening in this country anyway.

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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 17 Nov 2015, 06:53 
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merz wrote:
I have not seen anything of the sort worn out in the wild, and imagine it only appears within a sort of rarefied socioeconomic context.. certainly how i would imagine it happening in this country anyway.


Someone has to buy the stuff https://www.dotcomme.net/ sells. I mean, other than me getting some of the men's stuff.

Great space, by the way, if anyone's in Melbourne and hasn't visited. Much cheaper in store, too (not advertising them, I'd just like to see some of this stuff worn instead of on shelves, especially some of the amazing archival Comme women's pieces). The whole building is generally fun to explore.

I've seen some interesting Comme stuff in the wild, but not the truly extreme stuff, just the recognisably Comme like wide jodhpur pants, or convertible skirt-shawls and so on.


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 17 Nov 2015, 20:12 
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crouka, this is really a goldmine! i somehow overlooked some of the posts, like the one with postcards and R. Kawakubo's view on men and women - amazing photo there :)

fmc - yes, many of those pieces are beautiful (prices not so much ;)


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 18 Nov 2015, 01:35 
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rilu wrote:
fmc - yes, many of those pieces are beautiful (prices not so much ;)


I know! I don't understand their pricing. You'd think they could do better moving more volume at a lower cost, but I suppose they don't acquire enough pieces. As I said, was a collection of great pieces, not advertising (even if I like the guy who runs it).


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 19 Nov 2015, 04:19 
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homme plus SS2016 outside the runway show


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 21 Nov 2015, 07:10 
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there is CdG homme designed currently by junya. it was the line originally by rei. then keiichi tanaka had been in charge of it since 1990. according to him the only one key word rei gave in the beginning was "good taste". after he left CdG in 2003 there was some short period junya and rei were doing it together.
anyway I'm posting the images of it because the venue for the editorial is also nice. it is an old/rare book dealers district called jimbou-cho. you could enjoy treasure-hunting there at least for a week. books on anything, magazines, manga, catalogues, booklets, etc, nice cafes too.

homme FW2015


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 21 Nov 2015, 07:13 
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....


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 21 Nov 2015, 07:18 
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pieces and some more from another editorial


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 21 Nov 2015, 07:22 
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....


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 10 Dec 2015, 17:45 
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comme comme FW 2015


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 19 Dec 2015, 18:08 
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homme plus FW 1995, somnambulism season


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 Post subject: Fu-cking fan-tast-tic
PostPosted: 01 Apr 2016, 20:48 
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Fu-cking fan-tas-tic

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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 02 Apr 2016, 17:53 
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ahh this seems like a fun read, will save it for later, thanks for sharing :D


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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 02 Apr 2016, 19:36 
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It's just so wonderfully uncommon, somebody in journalism willing to immolate so many bridges in one go. Beautiful, really. Makes for great reading.

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 Post subject: Re: Comme Des Garçons
PostPosted: 03 Apr 2016, 17:44 
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just seen this article on the one you posted (haven't read it yet)! http://www.theguardian.com/media/2016/apr/03/jacques-hyzagi-elle-on-earth-us-media-new-york-observer


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PostPosted: 04 Apr 2016, 12:38 
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MJRH wrote:

Quote:
Most of the women gay guys worship work in the fashion industry. They all have the aura of a Bette Davis, Joan Crawford or Lucille Ball or the mom in Grey Gardens. Steely strong women, cold, authoritarian, powerful, slightly unhinged, aloof but charming, tender but cutting, vain but elitist, superficial but cultured, terribly cruel and laudatory in the same sentence, frivol, cunning and manipulative, overdramatic, superb, all bringing, as Hamish Bowles ridiculously once said, ‘a powerhouse of pizzaz’. Their mothers, for most.

Whoa, am I gay?

Really wish the interview would have come to fruition, as Rei is definitely that woman for me.

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