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PostPosted: 25 May 2017, 05:23 
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Chautauqua wrote:
Those hakamas are crazy. What are your thoughts on Pier Wu? I remember really liking her stuff a few years ago, but it's fallen off my radar since.


Yes, they are. Three separate layers of patterned cupro. Wanted black, but ended up with red, fairly happy.

This is from a few years ago--quite a few, I think? Yes, there was one season I really liked, after which nothing really grabbed me, and there also seemed to be less press etc. Not really sure what happened. :/


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PostPosted: 05 Jun 2017, 23:32 
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you lot are posting legit stuff as per usual - i'm sorry i've not been around to comment. summer's.. well, you know how it goes. there were a few photos i had taken over the last few months with intent to share them here and it somehow never made manifest. hoping to do something about this in the immediate.

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PostPosted: 13 Jun 2017, 07:48 
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Image


Probably falls into "Margins of NWVN" given the Dries vest...

without jacket:

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PostPosted: 14 Jun 2017, 09:51 
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going to have to man up and post something in response proper like. it has been.. warm weather, and every day i'm wearing either the black luc j-shapes (just plain ol' skinny jeans with knee bulbs) or woven linen l'm tapered bananas, pinrolled ( :/ ). a black shirt of some sort and the paper cloth bomber. a great laziness has taken over with respect to documenting wardrobe. things are being worn but.. that is just that. envious somewhat of the antipodean contingent for theirs is the winter season.

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which pyre shall the moon ignite each hour
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PostPosted: 14 Jun 2017, 10:06 
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merz wrote:
going to have to man up and post something in response proper like. it has been.. warm weather, and every day i'm wearing either the black luc j-shapes (just plain ol' skinny jeans with knee bulbs) or woven linen l'm tapered bananas, pinrolled ( :/ ). a black shirt of some sort and the paper cloth bomber. a great laziness has taken over with respect to documenting wardrobe. things are being worn but.. that is just that. envious somewhat of the antipodean contingent for theirs is the winter season.


Yes, very reasonable weather here. Sunny but cold, exactly as I like it. Although (as usual) I spend the whole season looking sadly at summer pieces, the exact reverse of what I will then proceed to do in summer...


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PostPosted: 25 Jun 2017, 06:33 
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anyone who has had enough of heat might find this t-shirt uniqlo makes helpful.
it could manage to work under, for example, those lightweight tops altieri made.
not the silky one that is just "airism", but the super dry textured one named "airism mesh".
I got the grey and the fabric wouldn't look sporty. it is close to the look of a certain stone's surface.
anyway I'd say it is more comfortable than any other t-shirts in sweating hours.


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PostPosted: 25 Jun 2017, 07:05 
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Had a short moment recently recollecting how I once approached online discourse (pertaining broadly to subjects of clothing) and I wondered where it all went. The deficit of it is absolutely a loss.

I don't think any venues operate in ways which that sort of excruciatingly agitating discourse can be facilitated anymore (not that they really were to begin with but I don't see around at least), a real feeling of doo's going to get slammed- it's going be gnarly n fukin rad (serious worldstar shit).
Fortunately since we're kind of in limbo here and there's something to like, be challenged by, a short bout of that vitriol couldn't hurt.

A while back I decided it would be a good idea to spend more time trying to "get" Dries, it was around when his like, 100 collection retrospective book or whatever was released. I gave it a spin and decided I didn't give a fuck.

Looking at the above I'm reminded of how I knew, and continue to know. Please give that strap a real good hard look, by far it has to be among the most flaccid attempt at torso brace I have ever witnessed, everything from what looks like the shitty woven nylon, crappy metal appliques, how the closure system operates, how the excess rests, how painfully indifferent it is to accommodating human anatomy. Like- fucking everything, every time I scroll up it's just this endless reminder of utter ineptitude.

Like who the fuck is spewing this shit out into a commercial sphere (okay, yeah Dries, but who)? What is the rationale here? Did they just look at an abseilers gear and decide "now how do I deprive this of any potentially desirable trait?"- is this what a design itinerary incites in 2017? During their selection process how can they glance over this and think "yes, this meets our standards and does not need further inquiry". I also realise that this perspective is incredibly naive (tough shit) I know the process is much more complex than this but the end result is the same, it made it through some sort of evaluation procedure (the mechanisms are unbeknownst to me), and that unknown process deemed it worthy.

Although in reflection I kind of understand where this came from, or better- who this demographic is,and why it may have been retained. Despite having arguments for it, I still feel foremost antagonised by it, and it's this kind of interpretation of clothing which continues to unsettle me. Where the entire service of the clothing is seemingly placed secondary to its ability to invoke bewilderment.

It offers precisely nothing in any form- it's at best a flamboyant excursion, like a peacocking spectacle but without the outlandish flourish- ultimately a castrated fantasy for the desperate.

Until recently I had been producing almost all the media for a small designer, someone who had won several lucrative accolades for their work, my obligation there has since concluded. A person who had collected several seasons of SZ magazine, a bunch of the S/T tomes, jackets dusty- pages a glimmering white, as perfectly rectangular as the box they came in. Of course their clothing was largely a product of whatever media they consumed (as we all are), and I'm sure we've all witnessed the rise of dark fashion. In my naive interpretation of things I kind of believe that people invest into something because they have a baseline interest (affinity) in using that medium to externalise and materialse their own image and ideology. If there was ever an argument against that view for me it would have been what I encountered during my relationship with this designer. As the weird nerd I am I wanted to investigate how precisely they came to producing this clothing (evidently heavily riffing on what was currently out there but surely they had something more to say or add on), time and time again- question after question I was consistently, maybe i don't know- strategically deflected(?). I can't really discern but the iterative answer could be reduced to: "because x (and solely "x") did it and it looked swag". Sometimes I tried to pursue that while it looks cool there's also an underlying alternative reading about what ideas they're trying to present, responses included: "yeah, it looks badass". They had adopted everything from designer "x" from the lines to the "experimental" approach to fabric treatment, patterns that showed awareness of human anatomy and ways to accommodate for it which had been traditionally neglected (ergonomics). Specifically, when I queried how added certain panels and moving seams to certain locations inherently meant improved flexibility, better distribution of force when strained by body rotation I was met with wide eyed belligerence. Further conversations included asking me to lend some of my clothing (only upon realising who made it) so the pattern could be ripped, or to quote "i'm heavily inspired by stuff like that"- worth noting currently working on the next collection.

I still don't know how I feel about mood boards but at least what good can be said from them is that they readily present a compilation of juxtaposed references. In saying that a mood board is a solution to what would otherwise be arduous cross referencing and compiling procedures, instead ideas are made readily available and accessible for inquiry and contemplation- it operates like a formal formula. The void of a mood board-like instrument introduces the question: what is the prerequisite necessary material that needs to be assimilated in this instance to pursue the formula?
Is the formula stored in a different vehicle (alternative mood-board)?
or
Has the formula already been selected, curated and compiled by someone else, somewhere else, and made publicly disposable- and this is simply a different author presenting their formula to a different audience?

fashion is dogshit.
eid mubark


Last edited by ternlef on 25 Jun 2017, 07:09, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 25 Jun 2017, 07:06 
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crouka wrote:
...
anyway I'd say it is more comfortable than any other t-shirts in sweating hours.


A man after my own heart.


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