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PostPosted: 25 May 2017, 05:23 
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Chautauqua wrote:
Those hakamas are crazy. What are your thoughts on Pier Wu? I remember really liking her stuff a few years ago, but it's fallen off my radar since.


Yes, they are. Three separate layers of patterned cupro. Wanted black, but ended up with red, fairly happy.

This is from a few years ago--quite a few, I think? Yes, there was one season I really liked, after which nothing really grabbed me, and there also seemed to be less press etc. Not really sure what happened. :/


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PostPosted: 05 Jun 2017, 23:32 
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you lot are posting legit stuff as per usual - i'm sorry i've not been around to comment. summer's.. well, you know how it goes. there were a few photos i had taken over the last few months with intent to share them here and it somehow never made manifest. hoping to do something about this in the immediate.

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PostPosted: 13 Jun 2017, 07:48 
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Probably falls into "Margins of NWVN" given the Dries vest...

(edit: deleted second pic cos my facial expression in it was so irritating :lol: )


Last edited by fit magna caedes on 26 Jun 2017, 19:06, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: 14 Jun 2017, 09:51 
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going to have to man up and post something in response proper like. it has been.. warm weather, and every day i'm wearing either the black luc j-shapes (just plain ol' skinny jeans with knee bulbs) or woven linen l'm tapered bananas, pinrolled ( :/ ). a black shirt of some sort and the paper cloth bomber. a great laziness has taken over with respect to documenting wardrobe. things are being worn but.. that is just that. envious somewhat of the antipodean contingent for theirs is the winter season.

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PostPosted: 14 Jun 2017, 10:06 
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merz wrote:
going to have to man up and post something in response proper like. it has been.. warm weather, and every day i'm wearing either the black luc j-shapes (just plain ol' skinny jeans with knee bulbs) or woven linen l'm tapered bananas, pinrolled ( :/ ). a black shirt of some sort and the paper cloth bomber. a great laziness has taken over with respect to documenting wardrobe. things are being worn but.. that is just that. envious somewhat of the antipodean contingent for theirs is the winter season.


Yes, very reasonable weather here. Sunny but cold, exactly as I like it. Although (as usual) I spend the whole season looking sadly at summer pieces, the exact reverse of what I will then proceed to do in summer...


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PostPosted: 25 Jun 2017, 06:33 
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anyone who has had enough of heat might find this t-shirt uniqlo makes helpful.
it could manage to work under, for example, those lightweight tops altieri made.
not the silky one that is just "airism", but the super dry textured one named "airism mesh".
I got the grey and the fabric wouldn't look sporty. it is close to the look of a certain stone's surface.
anyway I'd say it is more comfortable than any other t-shirts in sweating hours.


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PostPosted: 25 Jun 2017, 07:05 
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Had a short moment recently recollecting how I once approached online discourse (pertaining broadly to subjects of clothing) and I wondered where it all went. The deficit of it is absolutely a loss.

I don't think any venues operate in ways which that sort of excruciatingly agitating discourse can be facilitated anymore (not that they really were to begin with but I don't see around at least), a real feeling of doo's going to get slammed- it's going be gnarly n fukin rad (serious worldstar shit).
Fortunately since we're kind of in limbo here and there's something to like, be challenged by, a short bout of that vitriol couldn't hurt.

A while back I decided it would be a good idea to spend more time trying to "get" Dries, it was around when his like, 100 collection retrospective book or whatever was released. I gave it a spin and decided I didn't give a fuck.

Looking at the above I'm reminded of how I knew, and continue to know. Please give that strap a real good hard look, by far it has to be among the most flaccid attempt at torso brace I have ever witnessed, everything from what looks like the shitty woven nylon, crappy metal appliques, how the closure system operates, how the excess rests, how painfully indifferent it is to accommodating human anatomy. Like- fucking everything, every time I scroll up it's just this endless reminder of utter ineptitude.

Like who the fuck is spewing this shit out into a commercial sphere (okay, yeah Dries, but who)? What is the rationale here? Did they just look at an abseilers gear and decide "now how do I deprive this of any potentially desirable trait?"- is this what a design itinerary incites in 2017? During their selection process how can they glance over this and think "yes, this meets our standards and does not need further inquiry". I also realise that this perspective is incredibly naive (tough shit) I know the process is much more complex than this but the end result is the same, it made it through some sort of evaluation procedure (the mechanisms are unbeknownst to me), and that unknown process deemed it worthy.

Although in reflection I kind of understand where this came from, or better- who this demographic is,and why it may have been retained. Despite having arguments for it, I still feel foremost antagonised by it, and it's this kind of interpretation of clothing which continues to unsettle me. Where the entire service of the clothing is seemingly placed secondary to its ability to invoke bewilderment.

It offers precisely nothing in any form- it's at best a flamboyant excursion, like a peacocking spectacle but without the outlandish flourish- ultimately a castrated fantasy for the desperate.

Until recently I had been producing almost all the media for a small designer, someone who had won several lucrative accolades for their work, my obligation there has since concluded. A person who had collected several seasons of SZ magazine, a bunch of the S/T tomes, jackets dusty- pages a glimmering white, as perfectly rectangular as the box they came in. Of course their clothing was largely a product of whatever media they consumed (as we all are), and I'm sure we've all witnessed the rise of dark fashion. In my naive interpretation of things I kind of believe that people invest into something because they have a baseline interest (affinity) in using that medium to externalise and materialse their own image and ideology. If there was ever an argument against that view for me it would have been what I encountered during my relationship with this designer. As the weird nerd I am I wanted to investigate how precisely they came to producing this clothing (evidently heavily riffing on what was currently out there but surely they had something more to say or add on), time and time again- question after question I was consistently, maybe i don't know- strategically deflected(?). I can't really discern but the iterative answer could be reduced to: "because x (and solely "x") did it and it looked swag". Sometimes I tried to pursue that while it looks cool there's also an underlying alternative reading about what ideas they're trying to present, responses included: "yeah, it looks badass". They had adopted everything from designer "x" from the lines to the "experimental" approach to fabric treatment, patterns that showed awareness of human anatomy and ways to accommodate for it which had been traditionally neglected (ergonomics). Specifically, when I queried how added certain panels and moving seams to certain locations inherently meant improved flexibility, better distribution of force when strained by body rotation I was met with wide eyed belligerence. Further conversations included asking me to lend some of my clothing (only upon realising who made it) so the pattern could be ripped, or to quote "i'm heavily inspired by stuff like that"- worth noting currently working on the next collection.

I still don't know how I feel about mood boards but at least what good can be said from them is that they readily present a compilation of juxtaposed references. In saying that a mood board is a solution to what would otherwise be arduous cross referencing and compiling procedures, instead ideas are made readily available and accessible for inquiry and contemplation- it operates like a formal formula. The void of a mood board-like instrument introduces the question: what is the prerequisite necessary material that needs to be assimilated in this instance to pursue the formula?
Is the formula stored in a different vehicle (alternative mood-board)?
or
Has the formula already been selected, curated and compiled by someone else, somewhere else, and made publicly disposable- and this is simply a different author presenting their formula to a different audience?

fashion is dogshit.
eid mubark


Last edited by ternlef on 25 Jun 2017, 07:09, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 25 Jun 2017, 07:06 
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crouka wrote:
...
anyway I'd say it is more comfortable than any other t-shirts in sweating hours.


A man after my own heart.


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PostPosted: 26 Jun 2017, 00:27 
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JUICY! I hope the NDA you signed has an expiration date, because I demand more detailed shittalking if and when that day comes.


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PostPosted: 26 Jun 2017, 02:47 
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That's some interesting shittalking/criticism.

I'd also like more gossip about the "dark" label. I think every creator begins determined by influences, and the measure of their success is how much they bring the various accidental factors that make up their beginning into some kind of essence...like, we stumble from childhood where we play-act in imitation, somehow coming into some kind of maturity where (we hope) something not purely imitative comes into being out of what had been imitation. But not everyone stops being an accident/a confluence of accidents.

As to the vest--ha! Yes, totally impractical. And it doesn't sit quite as I'd like right now, although that's more related to my current winter body shape than the design of the vest itself. But a lot of the overall criticism--that it's basically just decoration, peacocking or flamboyance--describes a lot of what I wear tbh. Like... Harnden badges, my rings, colourful jacquard, red bags that leave stains on white shirts, even the deconstructed zipper on the back of my comme coat. A piece like this is not really that different to jewellery in my mind--the "practicality" of a ring that binds two fingers together seems kinda to miss the point.

So I guess I'd say, "yes" to a lot of your points, and then, "I'm ok with it."

I could say more, though, and I will! :lol: (sorry, this will be a very typical FMC argument, haha). Saying that something is just flamboyance is a lot like arguments in politics over signalling. Once you open that can of worms, anything can be analysed/dismissed in that way. The person who says the other side is virtue-signalling is themselves signalling tribal allegiance to those who imagine themselves more critical or less naively moralistic; the fashion critic who identifies flamboyance or impracticality might themselves just be serving another, deeper flamboyance, the overt demonstration of use or even (gasp) "authenticity". THIS "dark" brand is just hypebeast derivative crap, but THIS one is really considering body movement and so on... but in the end both are just rags--why value the clothing that reflects movement? The flamboyance of not wearing a burlap sack, or even the excessive attention-grabbing of paying so much to dress in a way others don't, in garments that consider things other garments don't...

Just follow the topshop or the target catalogue, become invisible, maybe then one can have distance from conscious signalling and flamboyance etc., but otherwise we're all down here in the flamboyance swamp together... some just have less embarrassment about the mud.

I guess these arguments always have the potential to go nowhere because, like any aesthetic argument, critiques only have as much bite as the person hearing them feels they do: if you identify some subterranean links to some trait or characteristic assigned "bad", it will only be as bad as the person hearing it feels that trait is. Like in politics, or ethics, but even more so. ("Your position is Zionist!", is a devastating critique to some on the left, but is hardly going to ruffle a conservative or a centrist.)

This is why I ended up having little time for the SZ vitriol: the only criticism that seems to me worth making in fashion is whether someone has dressed to their own standards, whether they are properly themselves. Too much of fitpic criticism has long seemed to me to be like political shitfights, "become more like this!", when the "this" in question is more a polemical-tribal identity or a gender bias than it is anything really worth living up to.

Not saying you should like the vest--if it seems like garbage to you, then it's garbage to you. I like the feeling of wearing it, just as constraining clothing (tight shoulders, close cuffs) can often be pleasurable in some way. But perhaps that's even less useful a discussion than the flamboyance/use dilemma... :lol:

So to unite the two points: it is interesting to ask how unique or original a designer is, but in the end, if you like the clothes, you like them. And the most that can show is a difference in our attitudes, even if the designer you love is a brilliant artist and the coat I'm enamoured with comes from the hand of some derivative hack. nothing is reducible to its origin or even to its qualities, IMO. But that's yet ANOTHER separate argument.


Last edited by fit magna caedes on 26 Jun 2017, 05:03, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 26 Jun 2017, 04:14 
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Also: Talk shit, post fit.

Also also: talking shit so I post a fit... new Uma Wang jacket.

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PostPosted: 26 Jun 2017, 18:36 
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i remain transfixed by those shades by the way. they're at once over the top and appealing in a sense that recalls la jetee

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PostPosted: 08 Jul 2017, 17:05 
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can't tell much in the way of clothes i'd wager, but something at any rate.
has been a good while & i've trouble motivating myself in this heat. but perhaps this shall pass.

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PostPosted: 11 Jul 2017, 14:11 
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FMC, all your fits are so nice!

I thought of some of your fits, merz - and also of those by others here, while playing the card game Grizzled:
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: )


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PostPosted: 11 Jul 2017, 15:51 
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now thats an m1915 horizon blue.

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PostPosted: 11 Jul 2017, 19:36 
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haven't yet played that game rilu, but i imagine anyone playing as svejk is bound to do well. (their team, maybe not so much.)

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PostPosted: 12 Jul 2017, 15:08 
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merz wrote:
i remain transfixed by those shades by the way. they're at once over the top and appealing in a sense that recalls la jetee


A lot of what I like in clothing flirts with being OTT (or just crosses over, YMMV).

rilu wrote:
FMC, all your fits are so nice!


Thanks! Quiet here recently, don't want to spam the board like I've been spamming IG...

Speaking of OTT: my recent trend seems to be extreme Comme pants and Uma Wang uppers... this waistcoat has the extended pockets, and the back is in the same material, it's really something. Not sure how interested people here are in her work, tho, or I'd provide photos. Although... buying her stuff has made me realise she's the exact reverse of certain brands I won't name: her pieces look much less good in photos than they do first hand, to the point that I'm tempted to buy pieces from her that I see online even if I don't like them that much, on the assumption that in person they'll be [some reliable percentage] nicer...

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Also someone pointed out to me today that these s63ms are the turducken of boots, given the different species that went into their construction.


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PostPosted: 13 Jul 2017, 17:22 
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fmc, you may want to stop using photobucket and link ig images directly if you'd like. photobucket now charges something around 400 dollars annual fee to allow linking/posting

http://www.pcmag.com/news/354711/photobucket-breaks-image-links-across-the-internet

i feel quite sad for all the images of yesteryear that will consequently remain photobucket's default extortion prompt.

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PostPosted: 14 Jul 2017, 06:28 
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merz wrote:
fmc, you may want to stop using photobucket and link ig images directly if you'd like. photobucket now charges something around 400 dollars annual fee to allow linking/posting

http://www.pcmag.com/news/354711/photobucket-breaks-image-links-across-the-internet

i feel quite sad for all the images of yesteryear that will consequently remain photobucket's default extortion prompt.


Oh wow... the archives take another hit.

Deleted my account there, no way I'm paying.

No idea how to hotlink to IG pics, tho. Alas. If someone does, PM me?


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PostPosted: 15 Jul 2017, 16:15 
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in one swift move it seems like photobucket has wiped out about 1/3 of internet history for the early/mid 00s. terrifying really. as for posting from IG, i guess its harder to do than i imagined. you can always just do image attachment when you post, like.. (doing this because i really love the below)

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