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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 12 Oct 2014, 20:12 
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"Somehow I like to work in a way that I start with something unimportant, try to change it and then see where it will lead me, how far I want to go with it or if at the end I'm actually interested in it at all ... somehow comparable to preparing a material for an unspecified body of work,

like one would prepare a piece of wood to transform it later or start to collect metal to have it melted into something else."

2001.


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Last edited by excelsiom on 12 Oct 2014, 20:14, edited 1 time in total.
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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 26 Dec 2014, 04:18 
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this appeared last monday.

Quote:
According to Lang, it's all about exploring materials "with a certain history, elements with irreplaceable presence and with scars and memories of a former purpose."


the themes are ...


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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 25 Apr 2015, 11:13 
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nice piece in recent vestoj:

"Helmut Lang: From Fashion to Art and Back Again" by Elisa De Wyngaert

Attachment:
helmut lang, ad campaign, autumn-winter 1999.png


Quote:
In his campaigns, Lang frequently opted to juxtapose contemporary fashion photography and archival imagery. For his label, this became a means of distraction from the inherent commercialism of advertising, instead presenting his designs as artistic creations. This is exemplified in Lang’s campaign from the 1990s which used Robert Mapplethorpe’s iconic 1982 portrait of the artist Louise Bourgeois wearing a black monkey-fur jacket. In the campaign captions were used to grant authorship to Mapplethorpe though naturally the advertisement also included Lang’s logo, signifying that this very juxtaposition of images had been his curatorial act … Although his fashion designs were not unique objects, the space in which they were sold emulated a cultural and curatorial laboratory, actively creating ambiguity between commercial retail and gallery space. Symbolic value was core to this kind of marketing, which built on exclusivity and intelligence as a means of distinguishing itself from pure commerce and mass fashion. For designers such as Lang, this became a way to cultivate a status of high culture by borrowing cultural capital from art, thus maintaining a very direct relationship with his customers ‘in the know’.


Quote:
Key to the various ways Lang presented his designs was an evident distraction from commercial elements, which led to an accumulation of symbolic capital to his label. This makes Lang part of a long line of fashion designers who were – and are – involved in sponsorship of the arts and engage with art through their marketing and retail channels … Lang kept the art world close by with various creative collaborations with stylists, photographers, architects, and contemporary artists, such as Louise Bourgeois and Jenny Holzer. The label’s New York flagship store functioned as the built embodiment of this minimalist aesthetic, lined with LED installations by Holzer and sculpture by Bourgeois, forming a crucial part of the architecture … As a branding strategy, this enables a luxury brand to construct an artistic identity that contributes to an obfuscation of commercial operations. Although the stories about his New York shop have taken on mythical proportions, when it is placed into context it was not in fact a rarity as the minimalist spaces of contemporary art galleries had a major influence on store design during that period. Rem Koolhaas argued that minimalism even became ‘the “single signifier” of luxury, aimed at minimising “the shame of consumption”’.


the shrewd austrian and the consciousness industry. helmut continuing, as usual, to show up / present handy model for peers ten years down the line.

haacke wrote:


Quote:
Those who in fact plan and execute industrial strategies tend, whether by inclination or need, to mystify art and conceal its industrial aspects and often fall for their own propaganda. Given the prevalent marketability of myths, it may sound almost sacrilegious to insist on using the term "industry."

unfortunately, we know all too well ...

Attachment:
2015-4-23.png


#ByeByeCoolness.


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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 05 Sep 2015, 18:51 
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from FW 1994

.


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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 05 Sep 2015, 19:05 
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" I don't like clothes that scream loudly. they mustn't be safe, and they mustn't be obvious - neither too designery nor too classical. my clothes aren't one thing or the other. it's all about finding a way through those contradictions. "

what he said for FW 1995





FW 1996


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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 05 Sep 2015, 19:25 
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ha, now thats a familiar statement that appeals with respect to a lot of the work that we've discussed over the years.
the quote, I mean. from what I've heard, the man is back to (did he ever really stop though?) making clothes for a select private clientele, among any number of other things he must certainly be up to..

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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 13 Sep 2015, 18:02 
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khakis


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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 13 Sep 2015, 18:07 
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fit pics of the clothes from 20 years ago
in a way, generic. but somehow this got good responses on the tokyo streets. even a comme staff member told me to sell it to him. it is an unforgettable lang look to me.


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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 13 Sep 2015, 20:41 
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have come across the HL militaria over the years, those never looked generic to my eyes.. part of the inspiration that led me to that flak vest i had posted earlier. I think ghost had one of those vests for a while, amongst a myriad of other examples of helmut's earlier output.. curious, is that a fit photograph of yourself wearing the pieces? I think i've read your writing for the better part of the past decade without ever seeing a fit photograph..

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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 14 Sep 2015, 06:24 
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yes myself


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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 17 Sep 2015, 05:31 
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crouka wrote:
" I don't like clothes that scream loudly. they mustn't be safe, and they mustn't be obvious - neither too designery nor too classical. my clothes aren't one thing or the other. it's all about finding a way through those contradictions. "

what he said for FW 1995


If classical = generic (read bland) and designery = specific (read precious), then your fit isn't generic, because you have successfully walked the tightrope between those two, with Lang as your guide. The balance recalls Continues. The proof is that, in 2016, it gets the same praise it got twenty years before.

Just read this from Carlo Mollino: "Only when a work is not explainable other than in terms of itself can we say that we are in the presence of art. This ineffable quality is the hallmark of an authentic work. Whoever contemplates it receives a "shock" that is unmistakable and, above all, unexplainable - a shock that he or she will try in vain to explain in rational terms. There are no reasons. If there were, we would have a way to build a convenient machine for making art through logic and grammar....."

Perhaps explains why the current fashion machine is failing to produce anything up to par.

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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 16 Dec 2015, 18:00 
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^ thanks


just a little story
" for his spring/summer 91 show, lang attached a swatch of heat-sensitive fabric to the programme. he had planned to open the collection by bringing on a woman inside a transparent fridge. as soon as she stepped on to the runway, the slip dress she was wearing would change from winter white to neon pink. on this occasion, the demonstration didn't happen, but the heat-sensitive swatch had the desired effect anyway. lang's audience was completely intrigued."


also FW 1998 was the season of heat-sensitive items for carol christian poell


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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 14 Feb 2016, 21:39 
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produced for helmut lang jeans in 1996
Attachment:
mary-sm.jpg

Attachment:
marytee-sm.jpg


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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 18 Feb 2016, 18:20 
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^ thanks for posting that.
was looking for it when the t-shirt thread had been started, but had no luck.

there emerged a live music club around shibuya in the late 80's where people like sade, bjork, vanessa paradis did a so-called legendary gig one of those nights. it was a kind of 'power spot', a kind of magnetic field. anyway in a matter of time they opened a corner shop that carried only helmut lang jeans on the ground floor of the place. it was the first shop for the line (normally hlj was sold mixed with the main line just like the two were shown together on the runways). there were five or six sales assistants since it was day one and lots of customers were pouring into the small space. the staff members were all female, wearing the jeans in old mailbag-like textured cotton in khaki similar to that tone on the t-shirt above or maybe identical to it, with whatever styles of red t-shirts, slashed, metal ringed, mary-hearted (my fave was the red mary on the white jersey which would be good with a summery light grey lang suit), etc. the uniform was simple but striking. the shop was a hit.
it got closed with the start of the prada era.


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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 01 May 2016, 18:16 
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check studio voice, the latest issue. you can see the contents include helmut lang interview. so I haven't even bought it yet though.

this one


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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 08 May 2017, 04:34 
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summer 1994

helmut's crusher cap

(selbstbeschaffte schirmmütze)

Attachment:
st1.PNG


Attachment:
st3.PNG


Attachment:
stbb.png


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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 08 May 2017, 06:54 
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from 1993 spring


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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 10 Jun 2017, 06:36 
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FW1993AD


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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 10 Jun 2017, 06:47 
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another FW1996 piece though this time from the SS2004 backstage


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 Post subject: Re: find a crown for her
PostPosted: 18 Jun 2017, 07:06 
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SS 1994


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